Their benefits are well known; tire clearance is now only a matter of the frame. I couldn't be more pleased! The difference was night and day and I realized how much my Hayes just sucked. He did mention that Hayes can send out a replacement piston which then I will need to replace myself and re-bleed are you kidding me? Keep in mind that you may not get the correct adjustment the first time. I'm seriuosly about to put on some different brakes. You don't have to login or create an account to see shipping charges.
I got it back in thank goodness. Did you bed the pads in properly? This design worked really well when I needed to re-bleed the brake after installation. I tried again somewhat harder. For transporting my bike I had to remove the front wheel and hence the disc. Normal mail time 5-7 days each way plus according to Hayes 1 day turnaround. By using hydraulic fluid instead of a cable, there is less total drag on the brake system which gives a more crisp braking experience. If not, do not over tighten the bolts Pay attention to how tight they were when you loosened them.
What it surprises me is that for resetting the position of the pistons after sending them all the way back into the caliper, you would have to loosen the caliper and reposition it. Connect the catch hose from the bleed port on the master cylinder and push the pistons back one more time. But once you are there they work and feel great. Take a look at any auto or cycle and you will find the pads are in constant contact with the rotors - sure they rubbing but the amount of material contact dampens noise as does other external noises. Then I start to realize that I'm getting the rub. I'm not sure what causes that mysterious scape.
It turned out that I had put too much fluid in. This should give you a good, neutral lever throw with the best possible braking performance. Perfectly aligned caliper, perfectly straight rotor--a micron left or right and you've got your rubbing. Also, the shims bend pretty easy, but thats no big deal. Provide details and share your research! After I fixed it using the cards I have never had it again. The only problem was that after I was done, the brakes stuck worse than ever.
Posted: Theres two bolts that hold the caliper to the brake mount or fork leg if its post to post mount. Most hydraulic systems that are on the market today are dual piston more powerful systems can have up to eight pistons , though a few entry level brakes operate similar to mechanical brakes with one piston that moves and one that is stationary. A ratio of 2:1 is a good place to start, making the stationary pad gap twice as wide as the moving pad gap. It may also be necessary to rotate the bike on your stand or rotate the brake lever to get the proper position to remove all the air. Hey Rancy great that you're monitoring this forum and giving some help.
Remember to always follow your specific brake manufacturers recommended torque settings. Also, is the rubbing continuous or at one spot in the disc? Did you bed the pads in properly? Some manufactures like Avid above, right have an inboard pad adjustment as well, again adjust the pad so that you have the space of a business card between them. I had a new break set put on my bike and after I had that done, I setup the tires tubeless. To finish the inspection get the torque wrench and check the torque of the bolts that hold the brake lever in place, and more importantly look to see that your bar has not cracked in that area especially important for those riders who had a bad fall or own a carbon bar. On Avids and Maguras, it's just enough with pushing them back into the caliper and just squeeze the lever. I have used the Avid Mechanicals for years and currently run Hayes 9's and love them both. The brakes were good at keeping speed in check but lacked enough power for hard, sudden braking.
I have never experienced this before on any of my mountain bikes and I am puzzled as to what the problem is. Then I used the business cards like was suggested. Aligned and gapped, just like that. Cheers, Randy Us Randys need to stick together! Theproblem is that if you modify the pistons diameters both master and slave , you are either compromising power or lever throw. Once disassembled, I cleaned everything with alcohol and tried to reassemble. I then decided to forget the instructions and carefully line the caliper up by eye so that I could visiually see clearance between the pads and the rotor when the brake lever wasn't pressed in instead of using the brake lever centering method. We did this by creating an all-new system.
As your pads wear, simply use the pad adjusters to compensate for the wear. Night before the race my rear brake isn't working properly, so I give it a bleed. What to do to fix the piston from keep coming out and not going back in? You can service the rotor while still attached to the wheel if you dont have the tools to remove the rotor from the hub — just be careful to keep your fingers clear! After setting them up properly and bedding them in, I am very happy with the performance. They may prefer you take it back to them rather than try to fix it yourself. Maybe I need some sort of brake rebuild? Most bike shops can barely complete a repair this time of year in that time frame. Be careful not to leverage the wrench against the opposite side of the caliper or you'll cock the piston in the bore. Well it seems like there are a lot of complaints and adjustment techniques but no real mechanical or physical explanations for the problem other than a mentioned over-sized piston.