There is a fill hole at the top of it. The pump consists of a gear pump and the powering electric motor. For some reason the tranny was in gear now. Since this was the first time I had seen this relay, I was careful to note the pin layout so I was sure to put the new one in the same way. Install is quite easy, although I was not able to remove the negative cable attached up on the transmission, so I had to cut that cable and the new negative wire is attached lower on the transmission.
After that i fill the oil up to the measured line in the oil reservoir. Has anyone had this problem? If I drive the car hard every now and then when shift gears from 1st to 2nd the gears grind like if it missed the shift, what is odd is that this does not occur all the time. You'll also want to read the smg temp to see when it is dropping out of gear to confirm it's not the sensor that's cause fault. If I drive the car hard every now and then when shift gears from 1st to 2nd the gears grind like if it missed the shift, what is odd is that this does not occur all the time. Disconnect the battery positive terminal in the boot. Cheers Whether it fixes the problem or not, this thread has some of the best, most considered and deduced advice I have seen in a long time.
Mechanic replaced the relay, ran great for a week, then shifted itself into neutral by itself again, unexpectedly. To remove it, you can try wiggling it from side to side while pulling up. Seems like a dealership would back up their work. Was it water that was dripping or hydraulic fluid? I would re adapt the gearbox shift pattern also after a clutch change. The replacement motor is already equipped with the required pins and can be directly connected to the original wiring harness. After installing and filling the reservoir I used my brake bleader pressure pump , I used my key remote to unlock the doors which triggers the pump to prime.
Obviously the car has to be on to do this. You will also be able to hear the transmission shifting into gear. Liquid wrench Optional Hydraulic lines can very difficult to remove in certain cases. Thinking of cracking open the line on the pump. In addition to those 8 points there is another interesting point I was told by Kayne at Kayne Barrie Motorsport. Hi, thanks for your post.
Regards, FrankG Cool, thanks Connected a code reader and both codes were related to transmission failure, however no specifics,, cleared the codes and was able to drive the car for a mile or so before the failure and cogwheel alar showed up again. The largest difference is that my pump is always priming. They have to fit underneath the ballast plastic tabs. Move selector lever from position 0 to R or 0 to 1 as often as necessary to de-pressurise the system. My 2004 M3 only has 40K miles on it so I seriously doubted the hydraulics would be having issues. This becomes worse as the car becomes warm.
Taking it home the day of purchase, my gear went into neutral and after hitting the shifter, it gears up. This offer includes a set of 4 hydraulic lines with each 190cm length. And when I turn key the cluster flicker crazy. . Hoses back to the air-box. If it still doesn't work - lower box and remove selector unit to see if it is worn. This happened either on manual or automatic mode.
Having said all that, I'm posting everything I learned here in one post. Do not just fill the fluid and drive it. When i open the door the pump is running 2. I dunno, I used to think of it as a ticking time bomb. Scan the car again and let me know the codes.
At this time I performed the tranny reset sequence, something I read in the web, not sure we're as I did a lot of reading press the accelerator pedal all the way down and turn the ignition key on until all the lights are lit then wait about 30 sec. · Finish up assembly · Clean up · Take the car for a test-drive · Do not forget to tighten the wheel. The next day, the gear shaped lamp went out by itself and about 3 days later the check engine lamp went out. Remove E-Box Cover by removing 4 bolts that hold it in place. Parts are hard to locate. Cool, thanks Connected a code reader and both codes were related to transmission failure, however no specifics,, cleared the codes and was able to drive the car for a mile or so before the failure and cogwheel alar showed up again. In order to make your job easier a special bmw tool should be used to perform this procedure.
Went back to that dealership, they check it and says everything's fine. · Note: do not expose hydraulic lines or hydraulic line fittings to direct flame, instead concentrate on the aluminum housing. Have a look at our! There is one other possibility and this will be harder to trace - but there is the remote possibility that someone has accidentally bent the hydraulic lines when changing the clutch. What happens is the following: 1. When I get home I'll let you guys know.
The replacement motor ist equipped with the required pins and seals and can be directly installed in the original cable harness. Also, if my dodgy cables fail, it will be obvious and it's easy to access these. If what you say is through the reservoir will only let the oil come out of the reservoir which is to much but it seems that the reservoir spills out more oil then i putt in. If I didn't raise this issue with them, I probably would have ended up replacing the pump. If additionally many hydraulic consumers are working clutch slave cylinder and gearbox actuator , the hydraulic unit no longer produces enough pressure — for this issue offers a huge improvement. I cut the old one off of the old pump right where it bolts up.