They behaved like any other carbureted engine in terms of side slope flooding and altitude sensitivity; however, they ran very well. Sure enough fires up and idles just fine. ScramblingMan, the 8384 will do, that's very common. With care, a couple of dips and thorough rinsing, plus use of compressed air after the final rinse, and you should have a clean carburetor. Making the proper adjustments ensures the engine can run at its proper speed without stalling and still maintain optimum fuel economy. It could be too rich or too lean. You'll need to make sure there is no debris in the fuel circuit for the jet: Use compressed air or a vacuum, or both.
There should be an insulating gasket between the exhaust manifold and the automatic choke. To check if the switch is working, do a continuity test between the hot terminal on the voltage regulator and the terminal on the carburetor. When the pedal is fully depressed, the plunger makes contact with the arm 3 and moves it against contact 4 which energizes the solenoid circuit, permitting the transmission to function. I'd check your ignition timing to confirm it is set properly. Turn both screws out one complete turn each. Your parts dip mentions adding a coating after stripping the parts, and that applies to parts that will then be exposed to the air and prone to oxidizing.
This will eliminate a lot of your headaches! Usually carburetors have a fuel bowl that stores a small amount of fuel, an electric or manual choke, and vacuum ports. You need to know which one your carb allows and adjust it accordingly. A swap I am doing on the 232 I am building at the present. The only other modification needed was to speed up the accellerator pump rate to compensate for the mechanical secondaries. Beside, the videos beat out the printed instructions anyway!!! Check to see that the circuit through the choke unit is complete by holding a screwdriver close to the magnet core while the starter is operated.
The purpose of this switch is to bring the car from fourth to third gear when the car is going at a speed where acceleration in third gear is faster than in fourth. Remove the high tension spark plug gauge size wire from the distributor cap to the coil as a safeguard. And, they all attempt to deliver approximately 14. I wish the service was the same in france! See that there is no binding in the fast idle or choke mechanism that would interfere with the free operation of the carburetor choke valve. Everything else went pretty smooth Before I even tried to pull the first jet out. I will explain this later in great detail! As for the O-ring that flew out from the air horn, look over the article's illustrations.
Next to them are two passages with a nozzle in the middle of each. Loosen the clamp screw on the automatic choke lever and push the lever upward until the carburetor choke valve is closed tight. Have someone crank over the engine. The transmission has to synchronize before shifting is accomplished, and if the engine speed falls off too slowly when the accelerator is released, gear change will be retarded. This, and carbs too big is the single most touublesome to work with! Your carb s contain an elaborate labrinth of air and fuel ports plus some re-directing circuits for air flow. Neither removal of the carburetor nor a complete rebuild is necessary to fix the problem.
Frustrated operators blame the carburetor as a scapegoat and thus a false reputation is created. The product picture illustrates the exact parts included. To check out your carbs! Just lift the access cover and three adjustment screws are there. Measure with a wire or flat feeler gauge. The flat on top of the pump arm should be parallel to the straightedge.
Read my instructions and steps thoroughly. The plain-tube, down-draft carburetor has fixed jets which cover all speed ranges except idle — which is controlled by an adjustable needle valve. Replace the air cleaner, checking to be sure that tightening of the air cleaner clamp does not bind the choke valve on the shaft. Measure the distance between the bottom of the floats and the bottom of the air horn, meaning the portion of the air horn that touches the body of the carburetor when installed with a T-scale. Very pleased with your participation, and the whole aim with these forums is to bring members up the learning curve by sharing information.
Start the engine and adjust the air bleed screws until the engine runs smoothly. Fast Idle: Remove the thermostatic coil housing, gasket, and baffle plate. The carburetor runs in a hot, under hood environment. Moses My carb is missing the tag, but has a number on the body 2731. In order to see if fuel drips from the nozzles at idle, you must start your Jeep with the air cleaner cover off and look down the throat of the carb. I'd shy away from the 2-3 largest though. Let's keep the lines of communication open.
I like the Mopar and Echlin kits for both their quality and the details in the instructions. If you get you vehicle production date and the tag details to me promptly, I'll gather up the info before I leave for the Off-Road Expo early Friday morning. And would I be able to install that system? Adjust by bending the arm on the choke trip lever E. If you don't feel comfortable trying this, don't try it: Concentrate on the square extractor approach, maybe drilling off just the head of the jet first. Downward pressure results in a slight relief of the screw jet in your case tension in its threads while rotational force applies simultaneously—ingenious, really. Using an extractor at that point would remove the remaining thread material while carefully avoiding damage to the casting's threads.