I had this problem on an f150, or it could be a wireing issue, or the electric motor went south. On those trucks, you have to be in neutral, stopped, and with your foot on the brake to go into or out of 4X4 low. This is what energizes the shifter solenoid. For example, the windshield washers will spray a great way to get back at your buddy if he happens to be standing by the door during your test , the 4x4 lights will self test, windshield wipers will oscillate, and the dome lamp will go on and off. For now here is the vacuum diagram of the 4x4 system so you know what to check there. I bookmarked the question page.
Hope you are good now. It's under the hood approximately behind the radio. Hopefully, this will help to FixYa problem! If I accelerate slowly it drives just fine, but when it starts shaking and strainging when I was to go faster right away. You do have to cut one piece of sheetmetal, but it gets hidden by a plastic panel again so you don't care. The dash light did change from once from 4x4 low to flashing 4x4 Hi, but is still engaged in low. Have you removed the shift motor and seen if it moves when switched? Question: Today was the big day, time to take my new toy and try to get it stuck. Let's keep the ball on the ground and run to the output side of the system.
For example this means that if an engine speed of 3000 rpm in high range fourth gear is 65 mph, then in low range at the same engine speed and the same gear, the speed would be around 30 mph. Also may need to check the s4s shift motor. Usually when an indicator light blinks it's telling you there is an electronic malfunction. If you have a sensor failure, the gem module can think you have wheel slip and will control 4wd automatically. They should of had people that really use 4X4 trucks look at the arrangement of the switches. Went into low range find but will not come out. So hard my girlyfrined can't do it.
It sounds to me like you have a linkage problem, or a transfercase problem. Thank you Answer: If you are having the same problem I did, try the following: get on a loose surface i. Put the vehicle in park and fire the motor. And you are right: Oscar is really. Or is it a manual transfer case? Yes I know how to do it, foot on the brake and neutral but I'm afraid its broke because my car is not actually in 4 low. Fuse 23 15amp and fuse 26 7. Anything that I could have messed up? So let's suit up and Play Ball.
I tried rolling the truck at a few mph as well as being stopped and switching the selector. The article by blade was awsome. Vibration seems to hurt them worse than most. I did an oil change and changed the filter, checked for leaks, nothing. Saves your transfer case and shifts your completely out. I don't know how many times I have done the same thing.
Turns out, Ferd doesn't want a rash of busted t-cases when people get dumb, so they wired in a neutral safety switch that will not trip, even in park, even if the only difference between the two is a parking pawl. I would try that before tearing my transfer case apart. It might take a little experimenting, but this usually works for me. Turn blower up, but I shifted into 4X4. I have been pulling my hair out over this same problem.
Don't drive normally with them locked. I'm sorry, I'm in a Ford Dealership and that's the most common problem I've found so far. Also the transfer case uses a front output speed sensor and a rear output speed sensor. At least that way you can drive it if need be. Shifter is going through the range of motion but not coming out of low.
Was in neutral before going into low range. Went into low range find but will not come out. If it's auto four wheel drive, a output shaft speed sensor that's out could cause it to believe one axle isn't moving and automatically lock into and keep it in four wheel low. The rear quarter panels arrived safe and sound. Removing the inner bearing for any reason requires removing the inner seal. I have measured the resistance of the switch in both 4 hi and 4 lo positions. Tighten the nut by hand while turning the rotor to seat the bearings.
Some points to note about low range gearing are:. I assmed I had a bad relay because when switching, I did not hear relays trip. In some cases it will be necessary to locate pinpoint tests for the codes you receive if you receive a pinpoint test, don't skip over it; it could lead to misdiagnosis. It then activates the electromagnetic clutch, and the relays that power the transfer case shift motor. To shift into 4 wheel drive high while driving, just let off the gas and shift transfer case into 4H position, and continue driving. I was a ford tech for 10 yrs and a kid I know who is still wet behind the ears told me of this deal. We tried everything, Backing up, Going forward, Rocking it, Made sure it was on flat ground,We thought maybe it was in a bind and would'nt come out due to that.
Very pleased with the quality of the parts and the prompt delivery. I assmed I had a bad relay because when switching, I did not hear relays trip. I had no way of knowing you'd know what you're talking about. Never rebuilt a tc before but have a feeling thats where im heading here. There are a lot of guys on here that are more knowledgeable than me, but you have to write clearly for them to be able to help. The switch looks like it has a resistor between each contact so the readings are not a direct short.